View Full Version : WTB - autococker thread barrel
Thalion
05-06-2008, 01:00 PM
So, during a trade on another BST form, I wound up picking up an autococker for the arsenal.
My only problem? A lot of my paint inventory just rolls down the barrel that came with it.
Now, I'm on a tight budget but depending on what is offered I can be reasonable. Ideally, I'd like to get one of those Python compression kits for it, but I'd consider something like a Freak JR. with a few inserts.
I can't afford much past the Freak JR, so no full freak kits or any other expensive kit.
For those of you asking why I didn't buy from Python directly already, it's because they're system requires paypal. Seriously, I went through the checkout all up to "payment" and it had no option for a CC.
I also checked Northern Command Paintball for the python system, but they only had the Angel threaded listed on their website.
I figured while I try to see what's out there and consider my options, I may as well post up here to see what people may have.
MondoMor
05-06-2008, 01:12 PM
I bought a 'cocker-threaded barrel kit (most of my guns are 'cocker-threaded), and paint seems to be small these days; I haven't used anything larger than my .684 back in a while. So most of my one-piece 'cocker barrels are too big.
I've got a Dye one-piece something-or-other with a shiny stainless back and black front. It came in a trade and I've never shot it. It's probably 14" and seems to be about .684. Thanks to the Stainless, it's a mite heavy.
Lemme know if you're interested or want to borrow it.
My office moved over near the Upsher-Smith gigaplex on 494/Bass Lake, so I think I'm a lot closer to you now.
Thalion
05-06-2008, 02:33 PM
It's going to be a little while before I can really get around to it. I blew some of the microline trying to time it today. :mad:
Good news is it's cheap, bad news is that if that's all I need, shipping would be way too expensive so I'm going to have to wait for a bit before I put in the pieces I need.
Side note -- I cannot seem to get the point of recock timed right. The pressure's not the problem (as noted above, I managed to blow the microline trying to adjust the pressure to recock). It goes back partially, but not enough for the cocking rod/hammer to lock back. I'm assuming there's something really obvious here that I'm missing.
MondoMor
05-06-2008, 02:38 PM
Your hammer lug might need to be adjusted so that it catches the sear (through the hole behind the feedneck -- you may need to remove the bolt). I don't know the Allen key size, but you can turn it clockwise in 1/8 to 1/4 turn increments until it reliably catches the sear. Make sure the frame is on tight (ask me how I know :rolleyes:).
I assume it's a mechanical 'cocker, right? Slider or hinge frame?
I bought a 'cocker rebuild kit (mostly just for the valve tool!) so I have some bits of macroline, fittings, and a few miscellaneous 'cocker parts if you need 'em.
Edit: according to the PBN FAQ, the hammer lug needs a 1/8" allen.
I usually rely on Moody Paintball's site for my 'cocker questions, but it's really slow today. Here's his timing guide (http://www.moodypaintball.com/zen/index.php?main_page=page&id=52), or one from another site (http://www.endlesspb.com/tech/timing.html).
i have a stainless steel dye boomstick 14inch
$45obo
Thalion
05-06-2008, 04:17 PM
I'm really looking into some form of barrel kit or the python compression system.
If all goes well, this will be one of my two main guns (the Viking is the other obvious one) and it will need some flexibility in paint diet (going to a few FPO events this year as well as using my own stuff)
BTW, Mondo, I found something you really should look into -- http://www.paintballgateway.com/wgpaupnshco.html
Saw you complaining about being hit in the pneumatics, this looks like a way to end that hassle.
MondoMor
05-06-2008, 04:46 PM
BTW, Mondo, I found something you really should look into -- http://www.paintballgateway.com/wgpaupnshco.html
I've been thinking about that, but with a barrel kit and a "mini" front end, they may not work without mods.
And cockers look so much prettier without the shrouds... drool:)
Saw you complaining about being hit in the pneumatics, this looks like a way to end that hassle.I prefer to call it "lamenting" (I'm in pretty deep denial about my whiny-ness. :D)
When it comes down to it, I've basically picked "pretty" over "easy to clean" and just have to live with it (and stop whining !).
Foster
05-06-2008, 05:33 PM
1)There is a guy on McarterBrown>BST>Dealers corner, who sells all sorts of macro/micro/ion/cocker pnu tube at good prices. Best part is the shipping.
2)I have a 'Cocker to Spyder adapter that you can have for free (I picked up a freak barrel for a steal). It has poor man wedgits (3 dots of nail polish) and for the pesky paint a simple strip of vinyl sticker has never let me down.
MonDo covered it, but text can not do justice on a Mech time job.
I am a total hack and I have suction timed my mech to the point where I could shoot cotton balls out of a stick feed. Really...if I can do it, its not that hard.
Just go to www.ottersccustoms.com
Send LT an e-mail he should be able to get you the Python kit you need. As far as adjusting the pressure to cock the marker it could be that the timing rod is not moving far enough to activate the 3-way.
Thalion
05-07-2008, 02:45 PM
Got something in the works, situation resolved.
Thanks all,