Takin Paint off

[Shadow959]

hey guys!

i'm repainting my 98c and i was wondering what would be the best/fastest way to remove the exterior paint.

[slick assasin]

The factory paint? Doesn't that usually just fall off tippmanns after a couple weeks? J/K!
I'd say probably wire brush it off with a soft wire wheel so you don't scar it.

[Edgar]

mine did....lol

[Shadow959]

i took it to my dad's work and used his extremely small sand blaster, i am finishing with the sand blasting today. pictures to come.

[Shadow959]

here are some pictures.

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/4847/003esc.th.jpg (http://img8.imageshack.us/i/003esc.jpg/)



http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/9258/002coy.th.jpg (http://img8.imageshack.us/i/002coy.jpg/)

[HEAD-SHOT-55]

I have heard great things about duracoat paint. They sell them often times in packs of three colors and a sentcil to do a pattern on the gun.

heres a website about them

http://www.kapowwe.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=R&Category_Code=duracoat-airsoft-paint

[Shadow959]

i'm going to paint all of it a flat black.

[JJohnson]

i'm going to paint all of it a flat black.

Isn't that what it started as?

[Shadow959]

Isn't that what it started as?

no it was black before.

[slick assasin]

Is that "duracoat" The stuff they sell at gander mountain? I used some on one of my varmint rifles like 10 years ago and it it still looks great.

[C4 Explosives]

I sandblasted my first A5 just like you've done here. I used model paint on it though and that probably wasn't the best thing to do. However, now that you've got all the paint removed, you also have the option to have it powder-coated. You can probably have this done at a powder-coater pretty cheap, you just need to make sure that it is properly masked.

I had a bike frame sandblasted and powder-coated and it's awesome. If you decide to sink the coin on powder-coating don't go with matte paint, go with a textured black, that is what Tippmann uses.

There's also the option to do a camo dip.

[Shadow959]

Is that "duracoat" The stuff they sell at gander mountain? I used some on one of my varmint rifles like 10 years ago and it it still looks great.

are you talking about the grey? if so no, thats the metal under the tippmann paint. and i was going to use spray paint from fleet farm, because i found there "camo" black. but now i have some other thoughts based on what i've quoted below.



I sandblasted my first A5 just like you've done here. I used model paint on it though and that probably wasn't the best thing to do. However, now that you've got all the paint removed, you also have the option to have it powder-coated. You can probably have this done at a powder-coater pretty cheap, you just need to make sure that it is properly masked.

I had a bike frame sandblasted and powder-coated and it's awesome. If you decide to sink the coin on powder-coating don't go with matte paint, go with a textured black, that is what Tippmann uses.

There's also the option to do a camo dip.


i was going to use fleet farm's camo black spray paint but now you've got me thinking. i know for a fact powder coating it will last much longer then the spray paint. i would have it dipped but every part i have bought for it is flat black. so i know i want to stick with black. even though having it dipped would be pretty cool! has anyone purchased the g36 rail mount and barrel shroud and sand blasted it? i have that for my 98c and have sanded the first layer off and i want it to match the gun so i was thinking about sand blasting that too. or i was going to just use black spray paint and go over the black base layer. let me know what you guys think!

[C4 Explosives]

I have a RAP4 dovetail rail for my A5, it's anodized aluminum. I really wouldn't recommend painting a dovetail rail for 2 reasons, first being that rails have sharper machined edges that regular top-coats will mar and wear off really easy. The second is that since these rails are machined to hold accessories that means that they have spec'ed tolerances between the rail and the accessory, building up a layer of top-coat will mess with the tolerances. They'll still work, but you'll be marring the top-coat pretty easy with the way that these systems work. This is why they are anodized, because anodizing creates a durable colored finish with minimal surface build-up.

That aside, if you are bent on doing the paint yourself I would recommend black automotive primer for metal and going with matte grill paint or a durable equivalent. Make sure your surfaces are clean and if you'd handled them with bare hands a lot then wipe them down good with handi-wipes to remove oils and let dry.

ALWAYS ALWAYS use the same brand of primer as the paint you plan to use, they are formulated to work together. That's just good practice no mater what you're painting.

Aerosol paints are still going to wear out over time, but the stuff I put up above will help it last a little longer. A step down from powder-coating would probably be using auto grade primer/paint with a professional airless sprayer so if you know anyone that does cars/bikes you could do that up too.

Before you do this though you might want to assemble the marker and do some test firing if you sandblasted the internal chambers to make sure it works :D

[Shadow959]

Before you do this though you might want to assemble the marker and do some test firing if you sandblasted the internal chambers to make sure it works :D


haha i wasn't that foolish. i used a dremel and polished it up nicely. no sandpaper or sand blaster came near it. i am sure it wouldn't shoot at all if i had done that. supposedly an old teacher of mine from high school does powder coating so i'm going to start there. if that doesn't work out i plan to look around and see how much having it powder coated will cost. thanks a lot for the advice, its appreciated greatly!

[nchittendon]

I've done a few paint jobs on markers......



There is an aerosol "aircraft stripper" that is amazing. You can get it at just about any automotive auto parts store. DO NOT get it on anything you don't want ruined. Spray it on the marker halves, let it sit for 15 minutes or so, then hose it off. 90% of the paint will fall right off with it. There may be some that you might have to go after with a screw driver, but it'll be done in minutes, instead of a 1/2 hour worth of sandblasting. Done that route before too.

Dura coat is not at Gander Mountain. Check out the innovators of it:
www.lauerweaponry.com

Dura Coat is really durable, and has impressed the masses. I have done tests with it where I have slid it across a rough paved parking lot. Huge difference between the DC'd one and one painted with regular paint. The regular paint would chip, and flake off in big chunks where it contacted with the pavement. The DC was only off of the marker where the scratches were down to the metal. I have a video somewhere if you're interested.

We also paint masks. The softer masks, such as Grills, and i4s and what-not are kind of tricky, but the harder masks are easy and hold up great with the DC. I have a video of us testing a JT mask. And by testing I mean, we ran it over with a semi to show the limits of our paintjob.

Need any other pointers, or advice, just shoot me a PM. Like I said, we've done a couple. lol

[C4 Explosives]

No problem Shadow.

Thanks for the heads up on the aircraft stripper nchittendon, I guess I just thought that chemical removers wouldn't work on powdercoat, but i'm going to try this next time and save a trip to my buddy's shop.